Gary's Ripscale ceramic finish...

So, I posted the finished product of a collaborative effort between Drew of Engine Cycles and myself for the Godfather of Titanium, Gary Helfrich, on Instagram and got a few inquiries on what the process involved.  I had decided to stop blogging until I had something fresh to share, rather than continue to re-hash the daily work and processes that take place in the shop.  If you are still around and thirsting for information, here is a bit of an oasis for ya...

This project kicked off just after the 2017 Philly show.  Drew, Gary and I packed up from the Expo then headed over to Engin headquarters to get started on the build. Gary had shipped some vintage USA made Ancotec tubing over and now it was time to create a "bicycle shaped object" out of it.  I could only hang out for one of the three days, but enjoyed my time with these two, watching Gary's dream ride come together. 

The raw product arrived at Groovy headquarters just before Nahbs, unfortunately, it took a back seat to other promised work.  Gary was quite patient, having sat in our positions in the past, empathetic if not a bit surly :)

The original request was for a single color ceramic finish in OD Green.  Y'all know me, I just could not let it out of the shop with something so un-inspiring, so after a bit of cajoling, Gary agreed to let me have a go with something that was more creative.  His steering focus was that the finished product should look like a war torn weapon that had just returned from service in Kuwait.  Yeah, I think I can do that...

I started off with about 4 hours of graphic work in Adobe Illustrator to get all my masking drawn up and then it was off to the blast cabinet.  Here's a shot of the Ti frame with the masked artwork applied, post blasting and chemical wash.

Next up was the first of seven different colors of ceramic...the beige is to be the base that the rest of the work is built off of.  After mixing the catalyst with the base, it is all run through a micro screen to ensure that it is particulate free once it hits the HVLP gun...

The base layer applied. Here at the down tube graphics, you can see just how thin ceramic applies with even coverage when done with a practiced hand.

I then grabbed some grey cerakote, reduced it down, and began to spray through some mesh to create a scale effect.  The intent is to cover the entire frame with a two color pattern...

I then followed up with OD Green using a different mesh pattern to give some diversity and visual texture...

Here's a shot with the entire frame patterned...

After a short 10 minute bake cycle and cool down, it is now safe to apply the next round of masking.  In this case, I drew about 30 different "tear" patterns and then cut them in three sizes so that the entire frame could be used.  It is important to apply the patterns all in the same positional orientation so that there is consistency. 

After the masks are applied the top colors go on, in this case, a dark flat earth for the overall tone with two additional custom mixed gradients for low lights.  I then thinned an Armor black ceramic and shadowed in the outside perimeter of each mask...took a contortionists flexibility to get to them all without over spraying onto unwanted areas. 

Another partial bake cycle and then it's time to remove our masking to get an idea of the final visual effect...

The final step was to take three different materials and gently rub over the frame to provide some edge break for the raw titanium sections and a bit of a "worn" look to the ceramic areas.  A final pass through the bake box and here's our final product...

Gary had no idea what the finish would be, desiring to be surprised upon unpacking.  This is always an nervous couple of days for me as I hope the customer loves the outcome.  I didn't hear from him for almost 24 hours after receiving it...torture.  Did he hate it?  What the hell is going on?

Finally, at 0200 our time I received a brief text.

"Holy Fuck, yeah!"

Good enough for me :)

How to build a titanium handlebar...

Hey folks,  want to take a look inside the process of building a titanium bar? 

Follow along in the video as I put together one of my titanium Dig It bars; a 2" rise bar with a 31.8 center clamp section, 17 degree sweep.

A few tiny things to note...

- Ti has to be meticulously clean to weld, so many of the preparation steps are outlined within

- Ti must be welding in an oxygen free environment with controlled heat input

- You must have fun!

cheers,

rody

Sponsorship Requests...here's the 411

I've received a lot of sponsorship requests through the years, many from young aspiring racers who want support, but lack understanding that it needs to be a mutually beneficial relationship.  Let me give you an example of one that came in this week...

Hey there I am (name redacted) from North Carolina currently I am a xc and gravel racer and I saw your company and I was wandering if you could sponser me with some demo or prototypes and I can test them and promote and tell many riders and fans at my races. Thanks and have a wanderful day!

Though well intentioned, I hope you can begin to see the plethora of issues with the request. 

Let me share with you my reply to this inquiry as it begins to offer a look from my side of the potential relationship. 

Thanks for reaching out, I appreciate that you want to help represent my work.

I've sponsored a race team and individual racers for over 20 years, and have participated in race promotions  for 10.  This fall marks my final season participating in both endeavors, as I am scaling back to spend more focused time in the shop.

I receive multiple requests each month for sponsorship.  Please let me share a bit of my experience with you so that you may have a greater probability of finding success.

Use appropriate grammar, punctuation, and spelling.  When asking a company for sponsorship, you are effectively representing their products and company as a whole with the public.  Affirming that you are well spoken, intelligent, and provide a positive image is important.  This all begins with your sponsorship request.  If you don't take the time to ensure accuracy in written word, you are not someone a company would feel confident about in the field.

Show that you know a company's products and why you are excited to represent them.  No one likes quickly penned form letters; giving some indication that you know the companies product range, expected market, and how you fit into that marketing plan will give you greater odds of gaining support.  Express what products the company makes that you feel would be of benefit for you to share experience and information with others.  Why are you excited about those products?  What tangible impact can you make on company exposure and sales?  

Why you?  Thousands of racers hit the starting line each week, what makes you exceptional?  Provide race results and give some demographics showing the area you frequent in your travels.  While exposure to the podium is important, it is not the defining criteria for support.  Companies want racers who represent their vision and are willing to be an advocate.  Is this something you are capable of?  If so, tell them why.

Finally, begin a relationship with your prospective sponsors.  Show that you are not just shotgunning out requests hoping for getting lucky.  Purchase one of their products, write a review, send pictures of the product in use...companies will more likely support a young racer who support them and have a measure of positive influence on others.

Good luck in your search for sponsorship, I know that if you heed some of this advice, you will find success.

It's rare to get something for nothing.  It becomes more probable when you can demonstrate a willingness and ability to positively work for the support.  Mentor, educate, share...perhaps we'll all get more out of future requests.

cheers,

rody

Here's the thing...

Time is not friendly to any of us, living or inanimate.  Given enough time, wind, cycles, wear, exposure, stress, eventually a change takes place.  I mean, that's how we have the Grand Canyon, survival evolution, and broken bicycle parts.

Wait, what?  Bike parts don't last forever?

That's right, I know it's hard to accept, but any material, when placed in a stressful environment, with repeated impact cycles, will eventually fail.

Yes, I agree, that sucks.

You see, the hurdle with designing bicycle parts is cutting that delicate balance point between performance, light weight, and durability for a wide range of physical users parameters.  Often, the same part that is used by a buck twenty female on a full suspension rig, cruising a flow trail, is also under a 220# guy riding fully rigid on rocky/rooty single track.  Where is the line drawn that divides durability with performance expectations, and takes into account your business needs for streamlining inventory and production?  It's hard to pin down, but we can come close.  Products are tested using FEA models, destructive testing of sample products takes place, and fabrication sequences are formulated to optimize and perfect the process.  All in an effort to stack the deck in our favor.  In the end, all this data is evaluated, but for each builder, the unique end point is different.

This is prominent in my attention span today because I've just had my fifth handlebar failure in 12 years (3 titanium, 2 steel). Bar failures are the worst.  Just like a chair, if you remove one of the four points of contact without notice, you'll be tumbling over quickly.  Now imagine cruising down a rooty single track hill when suddenly one of your hands is now floating free.  Not good.  Not good at all.

One of my greatest fears when opening my email each day is to find a communication from a customer who has suffered a failure with a resultant injury.  To think that a product I produced, intended to enrich the lives of the customer, one day results in a physical injury, truly unsettles me. There's a level of trust that is unspoken; that I will make my best effort to provide a product that delivers fun and enjoyment, doing so in a safe, predictable manner.

The problem, though, is in that last line.  In the niche of mountain biking, there is nothing that is sure fire predictable.  The variables are broad.  The risk is real.  Try as I may, I cannot control all the variables that my products are exposed to.

The customer bears a burden of responsibility as well.  Proper installation, maintenance, inspection during cleaning...all of these are part of the due diligence the customer accepts as an end user.  In a Utopian world, one hopes that product deficiencies are recognized early and the part taken out of service.  That is, unfortunately, rarely the case.  Even in Utopia, however, the tough fact to accept, is that despite both of our efforts, every part has a fatigue life and will eventually fail. Period. The End.

From a builders standpoint, this is why you MUST HAVE INSURANCE.  It is not for protecting you from potential liability, you've already shouldered that burden when you chose to hang out your shingle and accept money for your work.  It is for the protection of your customer when things do not go as intended.

Each time I am made aware of a failure, I second guess my desire to continue in this field.  Though the percentage of failures to living product is minuscule, the shear burden of potential is a heavy load to carry moving forward.  Despite how diligent I am in design and execution, how attentive the customer is to maintenance and inspection, the product will eventually reach an end of life point. When that happens, I pray no one is injured severely.

The final decision, for builder and customer alike is this;  what level of risk is acceptable to you?

Life is fragile and horrible accidents take place around us each day.  I guess, for me, I am driven to create and share because of the positive impact it has on others.  As a rider, I would not want to envision a life where cycling was not an integral part.  So, is the risk worth it?  I'm choosing to soldier on, with vigor, because these aspects define much of who I am.

What is your decision?

Titanium Hot rods...

Such a fun piece to build, but soooo much involved in the process...

Here's a short video taking a look inside the fabrication process, from the weld table...

And the finished product, complete with direct drive ring and spider...

cheers!

Nixie tube clock project...

My son recently graduated from college and I wanted to give him something special.

I've always enjoyed watching evolving technology and have wanted to incorporate some old tech into new projects, so I built Kalten a Nixie tube clock.

Nixie tubes were developed in the 1950's, a precursor to digital displays.  It is a cold cathode electrode inside a glass tube filled with neon gas and just a touch of mercury.  The numerical cathodes are stacked using ceramic insulators and when electricity is passed to the electrode, it reacts with the neon gas and glows, displaying the number.

There is still a small supply of these tubes in the Eastern Block countries, as they manufactured them into the early 80's.

I sourced the tubes from Russia, the board from a gentleman in the Ukraine, and then got to soldering.

The clock allows for 12/24 hour time display, date, and alarms.  I placed RGB Leds under each tube and the color changes during use.

The case is built out of sheet metal and was finished in an antique/distressed paint theme.

Came out pretty cool, makes me want one for myself :)

Mentoring 2017

Each year I try to give back a week of my time to a professional who wants to take their skill to the next level; learn paint, tig, new materials, etc...

This year I had the pleasure of hosting Daan from 11 Ants Titanium Bicycles.  The owners have focused their bicycle design on Pinion and Rohloff builds in titanium, a market segment that has room for growth in Europe.  Their builds for the last three years have been commissioned in China, but due to the stresses of working long distance and inability to control quality, spec, and manage expectations, they want to move the production home to Holland.  Daan came to me with 20 years fabrication and machine shop experience, but no bicycle work.  It was our goal to expose him to the fabrication process and begin to understand the unique difficulties in working with Titanium.

Over the next 5 days, we worked through language and machine familiarization barriers to reach a level of competency that will build a strong foundation for this companies future success.

Bill and I were also able to get an Accuset fixture into their hands, only the third fixture we've sent out, nice to see it go to a good home that can truly use it's accurate set up, repeat-ability, and massive access for joining.

Best wishes to Roy, Jeroen, and Daan as they move to the next step in their journey...Made in Holland!

January/February bars going out...

Ok, so originally I was only going to update this blog with new fabrication tutorial info, but it seems like I continue to do the same stuff over and over that has already been covered.  So, here's a quick post just to see if anyone is still out there...

Spent the better part of the last two weeks knocking out January/February bar orders and crafting up some tasty titanium cranks...

Much like welding a frame, the bars have a systematic welding process to keep them aligned and flat, starting with the linear ends of each miter

The bars are the only titanium item I single pass weld, as the additional heat of a two pass process becomes a bit more problematic with alignment.  To ensure complete penetration, a higher energy setting is used with a brief pulse to drive the arc deep into the substrate and feather out a bit wider than normal...

These titanium cranks are ran through the blast cabinet so that it will provide a mechanical surface for the ceramic to adhere to...

Colored and ready for action 3 hours later...

Thanks for tuning in,

Rody

Frame repairs...it's part of long term business

Whether you have been active in the niche of custom bicycles for a few years or decades, eventually stuff breaks and your creations will find their way back to you for repair.

Creating a sustainable business plan to deal with these, supporting the customer, will build confidence in your customer base and garner long term support.

Check out this short video that looks at the replacement of fatigued tubing/dropout and the business discussion that follows.

This blog has always served as an tool for sharing and teaching the art of custom bicycle fabrication...if there are topics you would like to see visited, please let me know...

rody

How to create custom graphics...

One of the most enjoyable parts of building custom bicycles is the ability to bring the customer's personality out in the finish work.

In this short video, I'll share the process of creating hand drawn graphics and making them a reality in paint.

Enjoy!

cheers,

Rody

Titanium Filler Wire Supply...Industry Pricing

Industry Pricing on Titanium Filler Wire:

G&S Titanium of Wooster specializes in titanium wire drawn products.  During the late 80’s and 90’s, they were one of the small cadre of companies from Wooster that specialized in supplying  bicycle OEM manufacturers with everything from weld wire, to bolts, and custom machined products.

Long a provider only to large OEM companies, they want to begin to reach out to the smaller manufacturers of titanium bicycles as part of a new direct to consumer business plan.  Over the last 2 months I have worked with Tyler LaFave, the head sales representative, to establish pricing for DOMESTIC 6/4 Ti filler wire.

All materials are produced and drawn here in the US:

Ti 6-4 Eli

AWS A5.16-13 ERTI-23

- .030" X 36" S/L -    $75.00/lb.

- .035" X 36" S/L -    $75.00/lb.

- .046" X 36" S/L -    $70.00/lb.

- .063" X 36" S/L -    $65.00/lb.

A three pound minimum order is required.

Any builder with liability insurance and a business license is qualified to order.

Please contact Tyler directly to begin a relationship with this excellent company:

Tyler LaFave

Sales, G&S Titanium

tyler@gs-titanium.com

330-263-0564

It is my hope that this effort will create a sustainable supply with consistent pricing to the handbuilt industry.

cheers,

rody

Soft Jaws...they're not just for pudding anymore

Though the process of creating a custom bicycle varies from customer to customer, the basic components are the same, allowing the use of dedicated tooling to be created.  Often this tooling is designed with a range of variability so that minor changes in design can be accommodated.

Production work, however, necessitates that dedicated, fixed position equipment be used to ensure accurate, repeatable results from piece to piece.

Today, I want to talk about the importance of "soft jaws".  Soft jaws are replaceable tooling that hold a part for machining, often not heat treated, allowing the operator two distinct advantages; the ability to shape the jaws to perfectly fit the piece being machined.  Secondly, the shaped clamping surface provides greater surface contact allowing for a less robust clamping surface, leaving no impressions on the finished part.

The example we are going to look at here is a set of jaws that were shaped to accept the spider interface for the Hot Rod cranks.  In this case, the part is water jet cut to the rough dimensions and the center hole needs to be opened up to 24.02 mm and then face relieved a skoosh so that it is a tight slip fit over the bottom bracket spindle.

The base part, before machining

To place this part into a standard set of pointed hard jaws in a lathe makes concentricity difficult to attain part to part, as there is minimal surface contact between the jaws and the part to be machined.  I used a tool post grinder, mounted to the cross slide, to create a shaped opening in the face of the jaws, allowing me to have a surface that holds the part perfectly flat and concentric to the spindle for machining.

The lathe jaws, ground to accept the part

This shaping of the jaws permits a consistent origin point from which to begin the machining process, and contacts a majority of the outer surface leaving no clamping impression, therefore meeting our goals.

The part clamped and machined in the soft jaw

Whether in a vice, lathe, or in a fixture, precision soft jaws created for the operation are an asset to the fabricator and should be considered for any production piece.

cheers,

rody

Setting standards...

Forums are places where folks of like minds can gather to enthusiastically share their interests, hobbies, and professions.  The ironic twist with the niche of frame builders is that our numbers are so small, often pros, hobbyists, and lurkers share the same space.  Professionals who desire to mentor, share, and encourage others to begin the journey to mastery, struggle with how to set standards for acceptable practices.  Keeping "the bar raised" on what is to be considered the standard for quality is no easy task.

The issue with the internet, is that misinformation spreads like wildfire.  "Experts" are born behind a keyboard and within a short time, are establishing  facts that are anything but, only to have others pass it on.  The crux is when an experienced pro who knows better attempts to correct the misinformation, only to be barraged with negativity.  Soon, the experienced mentors retreat to their shops, frustrated and unwilling to make the effort again.  This is how the loss of knowledge begins in today's classroom of zeros and ones.

Enough time has transpired through many list serves/forums/pages that it has become clear to me that one can never remove the human element of ego and need for affirmation from discourse, regardless of the subject. Moderation can provide some constraint, but will never re-direct those who refuse to acknowledge or conform, regardless of the experience or knowledge possessed by those offering assistance. 

The best way to "keep the bar high" and provide the level of mentoring we wish to convey is to be the one on the field keeping the bar in place, setting the professional example. It takes time to be a presence, guide, mentor via the interwebs, and each of us must decide if that is within themselves to share and provide at the cost of time, frustration, and little thanks. 

A unified presence/effort by those that want to make a difference and see standards set is the tool to get this job done.

I'll continue to add my voice where appropriate and hope for a chorus and not an echo.

rody

Removing a broken stud...

Picked up a new to me Diacro bender that had a stud broken off in the fixturing portion of the table.  Here's a quick video showing one method of removing it so that the table will be fully functional again....

cheers,

rody

One of these is not like the other...

You've likely heard the instant ripples coming across the internet; yes, there is another bottom bracket spec coming down the line.  This time, however, it is not driven by a big corporation wishing to redevelop a standard to sell more of their branded components, it's origins lie among a small frame builder, a family owned component company, and the man who has been responsible for the explosion in frame building today by developing more high quality fiddly bits and offering them for sale, than any other.

It began one year ago, at the Philly Expo, when a conversation between a customer and a builder blossomed into a discussion on what needed to improve upon the bicycle as we know it. At the crux of the conversation, the inadequacy of most frame builders to accurately create a high tolerance, well machined interface for the press fit 30 bearings, and therefore, the erosion of consumer confidence in the standard.

Once you've been in this industry long enough, you begin to see "trends" come around a time or two.  The complaints about the press fit 30 bottom bracket ring through the air; the bearings must be pressed in with a special tool, after use they can creak and make noise, bearings fail more rapidly, they are hard for consumers to work on, etc...  Anyone remember Klien, Fat Chance, and a few others?  Pressed in bearings that gave people fits and subsequently went back to threaded interfaces...here we go again.

Let me introduce the T47 bottom bracket; a piece that begins with the same inner diameter as the press fit 30 and then adds threads.  Isn't this just a bigger standard English bottom bracket?  Nope, let me explain why...

The T47 has the following positive attributes:

- uses a larger shell to allow oversized diameter tubing to match without swaging
- the shell is thick enough to allow welding of both steel and titanium without distortion
- the threads are properly sized to facilitate hand tapping post fabrication and for maintenance
- the bb shell will allow cups to fit all current crank spindle sizes
- existing frames with press fit 30 metallic shells can now be reamed and tapped with threads, prolonging their lifespans of use
- at least three bottom bracket manufacturers are already producing parts for this spec, so parts will be available

The T47 has the following negatives characteristics:

- weighs slightly more than a standard English bottom bracket shell of the same width
- builders will have to purchase new taps and make tooling accommodations
- people who like to grumble have another opportunity to do so

I've been fortunate to have known of this for quite some time and I'm in favor of it.  I like the fact that if I include it in a build, it allows the customer to have options in the future.  I like the fact that it will save some frames already equipped with noisy pf30 shells.  I like the fact that a certain headset maker whose product I love will be making their first bottom bracket to match this spec.  I like the fact that I have a shell in my hand to build one of the first bikes...off to the shop to start making plans.

What does it mean to race?

“So are you riding in Dr. Knob’s Malevolent Team Challenge on October 10th?”

It’s a question I’ve asked a lot of folks as the date draws near.  Some respond with an enthusiastic “YES, can’t wait!”, but many give me an automatic response… “No, I’m not a racer, I just enjoy riding for fun.”

That’s disappointing, let me share why.

Whether the trails you enjoy riding are privately held or on public land, the monetary burden of maintaining these trails often falls to local volunteer groups who have embraced the effort of maintaining and improving the trail systems to the benefit of all.  Though their time is given freely, tools, materials, insurance, and requisite permits/fees are not.  That money has to come from somewhere.  With government budgets under the scrutiny of the public eye, that money must often be generated by private groups who care enough to see the trails thrive. 

Here in Ohio, revenue is commonly the result of participation in our local races.  331 Racing and the OMBC both host races on private/public trail systems with proceeds from the race fees returning to the venues to be used by the local advocates.  Your race dollars are going back into the trails you are gliding across, administered by the folks who care the most about them. 

In the case of Vulture’s Knob, we toe a very tight financial line.  Unlike public lands that have the ability to include rider liability into their overall insurance policies, funded by a large tax base, this property must stand alone and pay for its participants each season.  We generate income through two primary revenue streams; donations and race participation.  Donations yield about $1500.00 a year, leaving a gap of approximately $8500.00 annually to cover insurance, utilities, maintenance, and any improvements we wish to make to the trail system.  That’s no small potatoes.

I implore you, re-define your perspective on what it means to participate in your local races. 

Some race to set performance goals, push physical limits, and compete; it’s about going fast and we welcome that.

There is, however, another relevant perspective; racing is an element of community participation and support.  It’s part of a movement to support your trail systems, creating a sense of advocacy, ownership, and contribution to a larger goal.  Race participants are the financial backbone of many of our trails, creating recreational opportunities for all to enjoy, from cradle to grave.  Regardless of whether you stand upon the podium or just finish with a smile, race participants are stewards of our trails. 

For us, it’s about giving back to something you believe in.  Vulture’s Knob allows us to share our love of mountain biking with others in a way that is unique, special, and is held tightly in our hearts.

“So are you riding in Dr. Knob’s Malevolent Team Challenge on October 10th?”

I hope you will join us?

Broken seatpost removal...

Have not had anything too informative that has not been covered in this blog in the past, but had Paul's Space Bike come in with a broken seatpost, the end stuck fast in the frame.  That makes riding difficult if not down right uncomfortable.

You need two distinct forces to remove a stuck stub of post; mechanical and temperature.

I've never met a stuck post I could not remove yet, so though I don't relish these fixes, they are strangely alluring in their challenge.

Here was a walk down memory lane for a stuck Thomson...

Stuck Thomson post...

This ti post gave up the fight pretty easy though.

First thing I did was look to gaining some mechanical force.  Trying to grab the stub with a pipe wrench or other "crimping" style tool will only ovalize the tube and create pressure on the inside of the seat tube, increasing the difficulty of removal.  So I drilled a through hole in the remaining material that allowed the passage of a 5mm allen tool that I would then use as a lever to turn and lift with.

Next, I applied heat to the inside of the post in it's full diameter; enough to create some expansion of the seat tube and loosen the potential corrosion, but not enough to affect the paint.

Then it was a simple twist and pull with a few choice words when I cut my finger on the ragged edge of the broken post.

Wah-lah...

Inspection of the post showed that there was a distinct discoloration inside the wall of the tube about 1/8" long, possibly a defect during the drawing of the material.  Who knows, just glad that Paul is Okie Dokie and that the bike will now be on the trail again soon.

cheers,

rody

Three Phase Power, a work around

Every once in a while when a builder decides that they want to add a machine or two to offer fabrication options in their shop, I get an email about how to power these large machines. You see, most mills, lathes, etc that you find available are surplus or outdated industrial equipment equipped with 3 phase motors, whereas most home shops/garages are single phase power only.

So, how do we power this new toy?

What most folks first consider is "simply" replacing the motor with a single phase unit.  While possible, this is seldom a good option due to the necessity of fabricating custom motor shafts, pulley adapters, or mounting brackets; all timely and frustrating hurdles to get your machine up and running.

A popular option is a static phase converter, an in-line piece of equipment that is only activated when the machine is started.  Priced from 100 - 500 dollars dependent on motor size requirements, this will get your machine up and running, although at a reduced/loss of power around 2/3rd of it's rated horse power.  While effective, the disadvantage is that you must purchase a static phase converter for each piece of equipment you wish to power.

The option I want to share today is using a idler motor as a integrated piece of electrical equipment to provide the requisite power requirements for your new machine.

A single three phase motor can be wired into your system as a rotary phase converter.  This is accomplished because a three phase motor can be run off two poles, allowing the third pole generated from the idler motor to be fed back into the machine circuit.  This will provide an unbalanced three phase power that will allow your machine's motor to run at full capacity.  When wired into your machine circuit, this single converter can be used to power all your machines simultaneously.  The disadvantage...you have to provide some type of mechanical force to start the idler motor turning (pull start) and your energy consumption will be higher as you will be essentially running two motors during machine operation.

I like to have an idler motor that is 20- 30% larger than that of the highest rated HP motor in your machines if you want to run multiple pieces of equipment. For example, if you have a machine with a 5 hp motor, look for at least a 7 hp idler.

Use a good quality motor.  I like Baldor motors for their smooth bearings and quality build.  The motor will have an information plate which tells not only it's specifications, but also the appropriate wiring configuration...

I typically turn down a piece of aluminum round stock to fit over the motor spindle, machine in a keyway, and then glue a piece of automotive rubber hose over the whole shebang.  This allows me to wrap a flat piece of webbing tightly around the spindle to give it a smooth pull and get the motor running...

In this case, we are using low voltage connections.  There are a total of three wires leaving our panel , going to the idler motor (red, black, green).  Our two power leads (red and black) will power the motor once it is spinning.  So using this chart, our Red lead will attach to wires 7/1, our black lead will attach to wires 2/8, wires 4/5/6 are bundled together, and our green ground to the motor ground.  The White wire, left out from our initial run, will then leave from the motor after attaching to wires 3/9 and go out to the breaker in the panel for our machines.  Coupled with the other two power leads,  the idler motor generates the third pole that our machines will use.

To use, I simply wrap and pull the motor spindle in the correct direction of travel, turn on the breaker or disconnect switch to keep it running, and then the machines already wired in the shop circuit have the capacity to work all day on generated three phase power.

Note, there are comprehensive guides available online to help you set up an electrical system to meet your 3 phase needs.  This is intended only as an awareness piece, not a "how to" guide.  If in doubt, contact a licensed electrician to help discern your shop needs.

The business of small batch building

A recent thread on VS has encouraged me to write down some notes on my experience with small batch manufacturing as a business model and how it differs from one off custom building.  The question distilled down: ...is it a viable business plan to build factory spec frames in batches and how can one best market/partner with shops to create a streamlined product line without the intensive time involved in one-off building.

I learned in what I would consider a small batch production facility that also did custom work in limited numbers. The basic structure I will share is what provided a successful business that supported 4-5 families for many years. The key, like any successful business, is having a well thought out plan with known COGS, production capability, and defined marketing plan.

In short, here are the key elements:

Your production frames need to have defined geometries and sizing that land solidly into the physiologic standards accepted by the industry but have your personal vision/interpretation of performance characteristics. Your perspective on how a bike should "feel" and handle should transfer through the experience to the rider. We found a 4 product size range to meet 95% of our needs...beyond that, it became time intensive helping define the fit for the customer.

The frame design and the tubing/components used need to be readily available or stocked in ample supply to maintain a consistent work pace. Using component design, such as dropouts, gussets, etc..., that allow for use across the entire size range is imperative as it eases fabrication and increases efficiency in both manufacturing and cost. These items should also speak to your identity, creating an aesthetic that differentiates you from other brands on the floor.

The majority of your capital investment will be in creating dedicated fixtures for each model to expedite the fabrication process. Time spent fiddlefucking around with machine set up is money lost. Invest in being prepared for efficient/repeatable work flow.

Standard finishes that are distinctive and easily created need to be determined. If you will not be doing your own finish work, you MUST identify multiple vendors who can work with your timelines to create repeatable finishes so that there is no differentiation in final product. Define expectations and keep custom finishes for custom bikes...you need known qualities and costs for this endeavour.

Set a finished price for each frame that positions your product competitively AND meets your business plan profit goals. These can afford to be cheaper than custom one off work as you are batch building, but that does not mean you are self depreciating the value or quality. Set a defined profit that allows prosperity. If you are looking to undercut existing product lines, you are doing this for the wrong reasons. Predictable margins and productivity are your goals, this should be a daily bread product.

Network with shops that wish to represent or carry your brand and have dealer agreements ready to be signed that clearly communicate minimum orders, cost, terms, and parameters of product representation through the build. Folks have stated various opinions on if you should provide a discount/wholesale pricing model. We operated on a 20% margin, offering shops the frame at our set price based on the previously mentioned business plan targets. If a frame was sold direct, it was at that same retail number, preserving equity in the retail market. This gave the shop an easy bump for stocking a frame, but allowed them the opportunity for greater profit if they built a complete bike.

It has been mentioned that you should only sell complete bikes as it maximizes your profit potential. For a small manufacturer, it is not as easy as it sounds. It does take an inordinate amount of time to spec and order OEM complete builds, assemble, and then pack for delivery. We found that although we could make more money on the build, it did not offset the time required for so few hands...the time was better spent making OUR product. I would suggest creating component spec standards for each model that maintains consistency for your bikes. Upgrades are encouraged, but diluting your vision can not be accepted. Allow the shop to build the bikes, the margin on the components and labor is another share of the pie that benefits them and puts some skin into the relationship. Their advantage is that customers cans see/feel/compare the bike at hand and have it NOW vs. ordering directly from you and waiting for shipping. Prices should be equitable, so that does not factor into the decision making process for the customer.

If you can sell a complete bike direct, do it. However, as a small manufacturer, understand that you can quickly turn inventory over in frame only sales. Your business is maximized by inventory rotation and recouping investment dollars so that you have greater liquid assets on hand. Many customers enjoy the process of completing the build own their own, don't negate your product from consideration by only selling complete in this small production plan.

Ensure warranty standards are clearly defined and begin at the point of sale. Handle them swiftly and accommodate a line item into your COGS for future warranty work. Not every product will require it, but every product sold should share the potential cost.

Support the customer's desire to rep your brand with accessory soft goods...have tees, stickers, hats etc available for stocking shops and direct ordering. You are creating a brand and want to encourage loyalty. Happy customers will be your best salesmen.

Remember, this is a totally different plan than being a "custom" builder and should be approached differently. Although the two can operate synchronously, they are exclusive in operation.

$90 for a replacement QR?

One of the worst attributes of some companies is making "standards" that don't fit anybody else's products. One particular fork company has a 15 mm through axle that uses a different size male thread than everybody else on the market. I can hypothesize that the desire to have a "proprietary" design allows them to charge customers a whopping 90 bucks to replace it if lost or damaged.   So, reason #122 to own a lathe; make a custom insert to fit the more common 15 mm standard through axle.

The original female 15mm receiver that requires you to rotate the piece to find the perfect lever tightness and position. On the right is the new 15mm insert that stays in position and works with a standard 15mm through axle, allowing you to tighten down and go. 

The new insert in place...it's a perfect fit.

A happy DT Swiss skewer with adjustable lever, a quarter of the price of the original and so much more functional. Common sense FTW!