Friday, February 20, 2015

2015 Groovy Tees


The new Groovy Tees are in. The good news is that Eric at Illusions Screen Printing said that things are slow right now and he would have time to do another run before the show, so we are going to open up the availability for everyone NOW. Em is going to spearhead the orders and shipping, so here is what we need from you.
Unisex Colors - Blue, Green, Red, Orange, Teal
Women's Colors - Blue and Berry
These are Canvas/Bella shirts and are a "modern" fit, meaning the soft tri-blend material tends to fit a little tighter, go up one size if you are all angsty about your luv handles showing smile emoticon
Cost: $20.00 per shirt, $5.75 shipping in the US via USPS Priority Mail.
International shipping will be determined by destination, please email me for details Prior to ordering.
If you would like to pick up a shirt locally, please note that in the comments area and disregard adding shipping.
Please make sure your shipping address is updated.
Send the money by Paypal to rody@groovycycleworks.com and include the color and size you would like.

Wednesday, February 4, 2015

Tapping titanium...what's the secret to success?

A month or so ago I posted a vid showing power tapping steel parts on the mill.  Seemed fairly straight forward and did not require a bunch of explanation if you are aware of the fundamentals of machining.

When moving to titanium, it is a whole separate ball of wax, full of missteps and broken tools if you are not keenly aware of the changes necessary.  As I'm just finishing up some titanium hot rod parts, I thought I'd share a few of the lessons that are worth knowing.

Know your material:

When speaking of Titanium, we might as well talk about the grand daddy of toughness, 6/4 ELI in a non-annealed state.  Machining titanium is much more difficult than steel, as the material does not like to dissipate heat, instead keeping it fairly localized. This means that you need to be aware of your tool speeds, feed rates, and coolant application to prevent tool failure and work hardening.  If you push the material too hard, you will find your tools quickly dulling or becoming burnished at the cutting edge, the material pushing and forming instead of cutting cleanly, and an inordinate amount of smoke coming from your work space...not good in any combination.

Ti also has an inherent springiness, a by product of it's elasticity.  This makes it want to close in on your tool, so having a proper lubricant that reduces the cutting edge friction is paramount.

Know your process:

Tapping titanium is not difficult, per se, it just requires a different approach.

Preparing the hole for tapping will require a stepped approach, using more incremental sizes and a higher peck rate to insure that the heat build up is reduced.  In the case of the spider interface below, I begin with a center drill to create a focal point, then use two drill bits to step up the through hole size, finishing with a third drill bit designed to work specifically with the tap I'll be using.  Due to the hardness of the material, the final bit is one size larger than you will typically find on the suggested drill charts, as the 6/4 Ti does not need near the depth of thread steel or aluminum would require to for the threads to have sufficient pull retention properties.

The extra steps and measured pace in creating the through hole is worth the time as it increases the longevity of the tap.

Know your tool:

I mentioned that titanium does not dissipate heat well, keeping it localized during the machining process.  This manifests in a binding action on the cutting edges of the tap, creating a circumstance where the force required to continue to advance will quickly yield to the torsional forces, breaking the tool off in your work.  We need to select a tap profile that will limit that potential.

The best choice for machine tapping titanium through holes is to use a two flute spiral point tap with a relieved back edge and tooth chamfer.  This allows maximum space behind the cutting edge for chips to be pushed out the bottom of the hole while reducing friction and heat build up on the cutting surface.  Several manufacture's make taps for exotic/hard metals, but I like OSG (EXO TI) and Emuge (Rekord C Ti) the best as they are material specific for titanium, have a nice tooth rake, and are designed for rigid tapping.  Below is an example of some new bits and taps from OSG...I always start with fresh tools when I begin a run of Ti parts so that it is a pleasant experience.

These taps are designed to be machine fed in one push...no back and forth hand work here, don't even try.  The parts MUST be rigidly fixtured as vibration is one of the forces of evil to tap longevity.  Make sure that you consult the manufacturers guidelines for speeds as they will differ.  I run these taps at between 10-13 sfpm,  That equates to an rpm around 240...seems pretty damn fast for how hard a material 6/4 is but that is what is required for proper thread shape and chip evacuation.

You'll see that I am still power tapping with the mill,  I don't use a tapping head.  The key to doing this successfully is to only tighten the chuck enough that the tap will self feed but if it binds, will slip in the chuck before breaking.  It takes a bit to get the right feel, but it is a process that allows you to start with light pressure and work your way up.



Know your friends:

One of the best friends you have in tapping titanium is a little bottle of Moly Dee CF Tapping Fluid.  Heavier and more clingy than your typical "Tap Magic" or equivalent, this lubricant will make life a LOT easier for you.  Good friends do come with a price...expect to pay around 50 bucks for a bottle.


Using these processes on my manual mill, I am able to get about 30-40 holes out of a tap before it is no longer sharp enough to cut efficiently, that's 10 crank arms.  At a cost of $50 per tap, you can begin to see why working with ti can be such an expensive proposition.


Know what to do when things go wrong:

Unfortunately, if you are going to be tapping a lot of holes in titanium, you will break a tap off in the work piece.  When that happens, those buggers are STUCK.  No amount of trying to turn it out using the brittle shards left above the work piece or breaking the tap with a punch will get them out.  So what do you do?


Drop the piece in a small container of Ferric Acid and walk away for a few days.  This can commonly be found at Radio Shack labeled as a PCB Board etcher.

 The acid will eat away at the cutting edges and thinner portions of the tap, leaving the titanium alone.  After a few days, rinse it good and give it a tiny little tap with the punch, out it comes with little more effort than the patience to wait.


If you are going to make custom Ti bikes, you need to know how to work with all the variables of the material.  I hope this gives a little insight and saves you a bit of time and money in the process.

cheers,


rody

Monday, December 8, 2014

Nahbs 2015 Louisville…why I’m choosing to exhibit

The North American Hand built bicycle show is a concept that teems with potential and opportunity for the small independent frame builder.  Never before has there been a vehicle that affords the prospect of global awareness for hand built brands, creating prospective customers outside the normally regional appeal our industry tends to propagate. 
During its tenure, the show has evolved from a small gathering of fabricators and key suppliers to an assemblage of creative companies, representing a broad view of the cycling industry.  Though some have argued that the show has lost its focus on the hand built bicycle as it has grown, the key platform and interest for the individual fabricator has remained steadfast;
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-     - a venue that allows for direct interaction with potential customers, facilitating the start of a business relationship in areas outside the business’s normal geographic reach
-         -  Media exposure that bolsters builder recognition and broadens awareness of hand built bikes
-          - Creates opportunities for builders and their vendors for face to face communication, development of product ideas, streamlining supply options
-         -  Integrates ancillary cycling products into the show, drawing cycling enthusiasts, increases potential reach and exposure for exhibitors.
-          - Provides for an instructional medium within the seminar framework, encouraging mentorship.
-         -  Creates a physical sense of community amongst builders who typically labor in solitude.  

      It is with these benefits foremost in mind that I feel supporting the show by consistent attendance should be a priority in each builders business plan.  Fabricators working at capacity will not realize a Return on Investment for participation that is tangible.  However, their participation does keep the industry in the eye of the customer, provides a vehicle for new builders to find an audience, and invests in the industry that has provided a living wage throughout a career.  The show benefits all who engage in the custom bicycle industry whether they attend or not, is there not a responsibility to give back?

Much debate has transpired within the small hand built community regarding the direction and administration of the show by its Director/Owner, Don Walker.  As a business owner who is engaging in a relationship with Nahbs, I feel it is important to recognize that in this circumstance, I am not only a customer, but have an invested interest in the success and longevity of the show.  To insure it’s opportunities continue to be available to industry members, it is my responsibility to give feedback to create an ever improving environment for positive change.  For Nahbs to evolve as the leading marketing medium for the small fabricator, I would recommend;
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      - A renewed focus on Customer Service to builders that facilitates a sense of ownership/importance of Nahbs in their business plan. 
-          - Affordability – Nahbs needs to establish a financial model that enables attendance for its diverse range of exhibitors as well as to provide a fiscal foundation for future existence.  Tiered pricing that supports the independent fabricator, as they are the focus of the show, facilitates annual attendance due to consistent cost expectations.
-         -  Focus on the hand built fabricator by centralizing their booth spaces to support each other.  Surround the builders by their supply partners, offering consumers a direct visual correlation of the goods that go into the finished product.  Ring the event by ancillary vendors that bring the fun and accessories of every day cycling to the marketing mix.
-          - Professional development – many who attend the show have an interest in someday entering the industry, it should be a goal of this gathering to provide educational awareness and mentorship opportunities.
-        -   Equitable show location choices in top tier cities, throughout the United States, proportionally locating between the coasts and middle so no one has to travel across the country more than 2 years in a row.  Travel and logistics are the largest portion of show participation costs, reduce the financial strain by insuring equality in location choices.
-          - Discontinue the Awards structure…encourage builders to bring product that represents the typical work from their shop and allow the crowds to provide affirmation through their ultimate choice in who they wish to work with.

And as a personal note to Don…the strength of a man’s character is often defined by his ability to let go of past transgressions and accept people as they are, celebrating their strengths and supporting them when they are in need.  You have assumed the mantel of an advocate for the custom bicycle fabricator, and subsequently, a responsibility to lead.  Do so with honesty and respect for those you serve, and they will return it in kind. 

In its short life, Nahbs has been responsible for launching many new careers, fortifying existing business success, and bringing a global awareness and recognition to the hand built industry.  I have been pleased to be part of that success and choose to continue to support the opportunities it presents.

See ya all in Louisville.

rody




Sunday, December 7, 2014

2015 Hot Rod Orders



Here's the skinny on cranks for this year.  I will be offering cranks in steel or titanium, lengths of 170mm - 190mm, with a four arm 104/74 spider or custom chain wheel configuration, for 68-73 width bottom brackets, in graphite black ceramic finish. If other options become available during the year, I will advise of such, but for now, that is where we are at.

There will no longer be any wholesale discounts available. Fewer units mean I need to maintain my margin to keep the lights on and the kid’s college tuition paid. Sorry.

I will be producing cranks three times this year.

As we are taking orders for the entirety of 2015, the spots will fill based on first come, first served, the first months run is already filled with previous orders. To secure a place in line, please send a $50 non-refundable deposit by Paypal to rody@groovycycleworks.com. Please note in the comments box the material (steel or Ti), length desired, and if you need a spider.  Please insure your shipping address is correctly noted on your account. We will acknowledge your order and advise what month the cranks will ship as well as the final amount due when your item is ready. Not sure you want to commit without knowing your production date…drop me an email and we’ll let you know where we are at.

Thanks,

rody

Wednesday, December 3, 2014

2015 Luv Handle orders

It’s time to open the order books for 2015 Luv Handles.  



There are a few changes this season that I’d like to review; first and foremost, I will only be producing Titanium bars from this point forward.  This decision was not easy, as I do value a product range that allows a range of fiscal levels, however, I just cannot physically continue to produce 400+ bars each year.  Moving to titanium only will allow a product that has the best blend of performance and durability, while allowing me to produce fewer units and maintain some balance in my life.

Secondly, there is no longer an upcharge for width changes; 25” to 30” in even inch increments will all be the same price.  As I’m doing fewer units, I can absorb the time it takes to modify the fixtures for individuals width needs.

Third, there will no longer be any wholesale discounts available.  Fewer units mean I need to maintain my margin to keep the lights on and the kid’s college tuition paid.  Sorry.

I will be producing bars bi-monthly.

So, with the preamble out of the way, here’s how to order.

As we are taking orders for the entirety of 2015, the spots will fill based on first come, first served.  To secure a place in line, please send a $50 non-refundable deposit by Paypal to rody@groovycycleworks.com.  Please note in the comments box the width desired, finish (blasted, brushed, ceramic, custom paint), and if a custom shim is needed.  Please insure your shipping address is correctly noted on your account.  We will acknowledge your order and advise what month the bar will ship as well as the final amount due when your item is ready.  Not sure you want to commit without knowing your production date…drop me an email and we’ll let you know where we are at.
Thanks for your patience.

For those of you interested in Hot Rods, I’ll be posting 2015 ordering info here on Friday!

Sunday, November 16, 2014

Sharpening Tungsten Electrodes

I get quite a few emails from folks asking for tips on the best way to sharpen their tungsten electrodes for TIG welding.

Rest assured, it is not necessary to spend a thousand dollars on a portable tungsten sharpener (a fancy Dremel tool with diamond bit and angled channel) to get consistent results.

A few pointers to keep in mind...

Avoid using sanding belts or stones that are available for general shop use.  These mediums will accumulate debris from other operations and embed that into your tungsten, contaminating your electrode and subsequently your work piece.  Instead, dedicate a diamond grinding wheel specifically for use as an electrode sharpener and use it for nothing else.  If you are patient, you can find deals on these wheels, such as this...  Enco diamond wheel

When sharpening an electrode, the striations left behind affect the ease with which the electrical current will travel down to the work piece, so the more you can keep those striations traveling along the length of the electrode (parallel) the more low current and start control of the arc you will retain.  This is the primary reason it is ill advised to use the side of a grinding wheel with the electrode perpendicular to it's position, as it creates lateral rings that will inhibit the flow of the current.

I try to keep the length of my tips about 2.5 times the diameter of the electrode, forming to a nice sharp tip at the end.  I prefer the sharpened tip to a flat tip due to the tight seams and low profile beads we tend to use in the bicycle industry.

Always wipe down your electrode with a bit of alcohol or acetone before placing it back into the torch to keep your electrical interface as tidy as possible.

Here's a quick video I put up to illustrate the process I use...

cheers,

rody